Departed on Sunday September 2, 2001 on Air China and arrived in Shanghai in the evening of Monday September 3rd. Tired, we checked in the Qianhe Hotel unpacked and went straight to bed. 

After breakfast we toured China's bustling and cosmopolitan city. We visited the new Shanghai area - Visi Bund. The tall buildings that line the west side of the street that were the exclusive domain of the Western powers in the past, have not changed much but are now the financial center of the city.  We window shopped the stores lined on Nanjing Road driving to the Yu Yuan Gardens.  These exquisite gardens, pavilions, tea houses and goldfish ponds were built in 1577 by a city official. We next  visited the Songjiang Pagoda which is interesting for its square shape construction. Allowed to climb to the top (approx 220 stairs)  we were treated to a spectacular view of the city. Next was the Jade Buddha Temple that houses the world's largest jade Buddha. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pictures. After diner we were entertained by a fantastic acrobatic show.

Wednesday September 5, 2001: Flew to Wuhan and was surprised by the amount of water there, as various lakes are seen all around the city.  East Lake (which is the most famous one covers 34 sq mi) is surrounded by teashops overlooking great views of the lake. We next visited the Hubei Provincial Museum that houses Mao memorabilia, a collection of  5th century artifacts, ceremonial objects, decorations  and the very impressive set of 65 bronze bells. During the short concert we were mesmerized by the music emanating from these bells.

Thursday September 6, 2001: After breakfast took a bus to Shashi and boarded the MS Star Dipper to begin our upstream journey.

With a length of more than 6300 kilometers the Yangtze river is the longest in Asia. From Shashi to Chongqing the waters, muddy with a reddish tinge, flow in whirlpools and eddies. The Three Gorges (193 km) is the most beautiful section of the river and understandably have been throughout the ages the subject of romantic poets and painters.

Friday September 7, 2001: Cruising down the Yangze the views are beautiful despite the overcast skies, fog and high humidity, normal for the Yangtze. Humidity  was close to 80% but it felt like twice that to me. Prior to entering the Xi Ling Gorge we arrived at the Be Zhou Ba Dam shiplock. I had never seen one in operation and could not help appreciating how simple and ingenious this was.

Xi Ling Gorge extending 76 km is know for its shoals and rapids and now for the Three Gorges construction project. It is the largest project ever attempted by China and here are some facts and figures to help comprehend its scope. The total area that will be flooded is 1084-sq.m.  Approximately 20 regions, cities and counties of Chongqing and Hubei will be flooded. This breaks down into 2 cities, 11 counties, 116 towns, 1599 industrial and mineral enterprises, ports and docks and other infrastructure facilities all need to be moved or rebuilt. Add to this 1.3 million people in the process of relocation. Just awesome!

When finished in 2009 the project will  look as  the above model e.g. the Dam with a hydroelectric plant equipped with the worlds largest turbines, the 5 tier shiplock as well as hotels and entertaining facilities.

This is how the various stages of construction looked today.

Saturday September 8, 2001: The Wu Gorge 44 km. is know for its deep valley and quiet beauty. We passed the Twelve Peaks that line along the two banks of the gorge and agreed that the Goddess Peak was the most beautiful one. Unfortunately it was too foggy for picture taking. We next boarded small boats and explored the Lesser Three Gorges. It is narrower than the Great Three Gorges but more impressive. The views are magnificent as seen below.

Sunday September 9, 2001: Enjoyed the thrill of a sunrise cruising the dramatic grandeur of Qutang Gorge. A little latter we passed Fengu, the Ghost City and debarked to visit the Shi Bao Zhai Pagoda. This Budist Temple built in 1750 is eleven stories high and the spiral staircase to the top gave us a spectacular view of the river and countryside.

Monday September 10, 2001: Disembarked at Chongqing and after a 3 hour winding scenic drive arrived at Dazu. It ranks among the most important Buddist archeological sites being the repository of more than 50,000 stone carvings dating from the 9th. to the 13th. centuries AD. We visited Baodingshan built by monk Zhao Zhifeng. The sculptures carved in walls and colored beautifully carried Buddist teachings depicted in scenes from every day life. 

Tuesday September 11, 2001: It was very hot and humid during our city tour of Chongqing. No wonder it is nicknamed "furnace of the Yangtze". Our first stop was a visit to the Zoo whose main attraction were the young Pandas having their daily meal of bamboo reeds.

We next visited a medium level local farmer's house and witnessed their difficulties. No floors, bathroom  or running water. The stench from growing pigs in a sty under the same roof was awful. We went to a local market and were intrigued by the available produce albeit the poor sanitary conditions.

 Visited the Joseph Stilwell Museum dedicated to the General's contributions and his help to China while commander of the CBI theater of operations in World War II. Lastly we visited Zhou Enlai's residence formerly the clandestine headquarters of the CCP. The residence sits on a bluff overlooking the Jialing River.

Late that afternoon we headed to the airport and flew out of Chongqing on a 747 Air China flight to Xian.

Wednesday September 12, 2001:  Xian's chief attraction has to be the Terra Cotta Warriors. In 1914 some peasants digging a well found one of the centuries greatest archeological discoveries. What they stumbled upon was an estimated six thousand life-size warriors guarding the tomb of emperor Qin Shi Huandi. The warriors are clad in armor or short belted gowns originally painted in bright colors which unfortunately have faded. The restoration work has so far taken 30 years and they estimate that it will require 20 more. The last picture below gives you a sense of the condition they were found in and the scope of the reconstruction needed.

In addition to the warriors, chariots drawn by four horses were found and the incased replicas have been placed in the building's entrance as pictured below..

Spent the rest of the afternoon touring the ancient city walls, towers and moats. The walls are the oldest and best preserved ones from the Ming Dynasty. After dinner we were treated to a presentation of the famous Tang Dynasty Cultural show of music and dancing, done and performed exquisitely.

Thursday September 13, 2001: Completed the city tour in the morning by visiting the Bampo Museum that housed relics showing the intelligence of primitive society and then headed for the airport where we took our flight to Beijing.

Friday September 14, 2001: Had our first hearty just like home breakfast that tasted great and were ready for Beijing. On our first stop we followed the Sacred Way road (the access of which was forbidden to all at the time) along which are carved human figures and animals, to the Ming Tombs. Maintaining an imperial tradition the Ming emperors selected the location and design of their tombs while still alive. We entered Ding Ling also known as the Underground Palace which was excavated in 1957. The coffins of Emperor Wan Li, his two wives as well as 26 chests containing 3000 precious relics were found there.

Tiananmen Square in the center of Beijing is the largest of its kind. Over the last hundred years, ceremonies and demonstrations were held there. It is a national symbol with the Great Hall of the People (Chinese Congress) on the west side and the Museum of the Chinese Revolution and the Museum of Chinese History to the east side. The Monument to the People's Heroes dominates the center of the square. The Chairman Mao Memorial Hall and the Qianmen gate, are located on the south side of the square. A huge portrait of Mao hangs at the entrance of the hall. The artist whose specialty has been painting Mao was been commissioned to paint every year a new portrait to replace the older one.

The Imperial Palace also located in the heart of Beijing was the residence of emperors for five centuries. Popularly known as the Forbidden City, it was built during the Ming Dynasty in the early 1400s. It took 100,000 artisans and one million workmen fourteen years to complete the sequence of palaces with courtyards, fortified walls and protective moat. These palaces are beautiful but were only able to see some of the interior rooms through doors and glass windows 

The Summer Palace, was a place of retreat and delight for the Imperial family. Over a thousand years old, its reconstruction was overseen by Empress Dowager Cixi in 1908 with funds embezzled from the Imperial Navy . Kunming Lake in front, and Longevity Hill behind, elicit spectacular views. Interspersed are gardens, exotic stones, marble bridges, a marble boat and luxurious buildings.

Saturday September 15, 2001: Left the hotel on our way to climb The Great Wall. I had seen many pictures and videos of the Wall but it was something else seeing the real thing and getting up there. Climbing up and down those stairs sure was a work out. The Great Wall got its start in 221 BC, when the new Qin emperor repaired and linked together earlier, separate sections. It was meant to be a barrier against nomadic enemies, but has functioned more as a national symbol: the civilized (us) inside the Great Wall, against the uncultured barbarians (them) outside. It failed as a protection against both the Mongols and the Manchus. Under the Ming dynasty large sections were re-built with elaborate gates and fortresses. What we see in the pictures below is datable to this period.

That evening we had our farewell dinner and then went to the Beijing Opera. All I can say is that I was unable to develop an affinity for Chinese Opera... yet.

Sunday September 16, 2001: After a spectacular two weeks we were happy to board Air China for our return flight home.